Published January 24, 2012
Pasteur and Present
The Return of Pasteur in Edgewater
You love a good comeback story.
You’d love one more, however, if it ended with you spreading foie gras on crusty baguettes and/or slurping
a big bowl of pho.
Tonight... it will.
Please welcome back
Pasteur, restoring French-Vietnamese grandeur to its original Edgewater
location after a five-year hiatus.
Word of warning: things are not quite what you remember. Oh, sure, those potted palms are there. A few
rattan chairs. Patio-tile floors. But what seemed like 1930s Saigon now looks more like present-day
Paris—white tablecloths, icy colors, art moderne light fixtures and
long, sexy banquettes where you and any number of dates can clink your syrah glasses and eat shrimp
spring rolls.
Now that you’ve been warned of sexier seating, let’s focus on the food. Pasteur’s original chef will
be in charge of your catfish steaks and clay pot ginger chicken. Acclaimed local knife-for-hire Eric
Aubriot, however, will oversee the French end of the equation. It’s a power-sharing arrangement in which
everyone wins, particularly your boeuf au vin.
Yet you’re left wondering about one crucial, unresolved matter: the proper cocktail to toast a momentous
occasion. Your answer: a
Hanoi Cocktail, which is bourbon with hints of anise and Thai basil,
inspired by traditional pho.
Though raising a bowl of pho is also acceptable.
VITALS
Pasteur
5525 N Broadway
(between Bryn Mawr and Catalpa)
Chicago, IL 60640
773-728-4800