Wild Beast

A Discrete Classic of a Bar Tucked Into Verlaine

With a Little Bar Food From Diego Hernandez

By Hadley Tomicki ·
2ea0d4281877f6c04c1f86bc0b0b0e5011 PhotosWild Beast
Drinking in secret: bad.

Drinking in secret bars: very much not bad.

What a difference a bar makes.

That’s the lesson at Wild Beast, a classic-looking new cocktail roost tucked discretely into the front of Verlaine, opening Wednesday in West Hollywood.

We see you meeting a date here on a sultry summer evening. The heat between you only quenched by expertly crafted drinks made by the hand of a Scopa/Tasting Kitchen vet. There’s also bar food from one of Mexico’s most celebrated chefs. You know. That recurring scenario.

You’ll enter this stately watering hole that looks like it sprouted up alongside the studio system after locating its black door. Then, you’ll squire said date to a green-backed chair in the corner under the skylight and proceed to the bar to order a Sazerac or a chamomile-and-red-rose tonic with the spirit of your choosing.

And should the impulse strike you, there will be that short menu of edible things from chef Diego Hernandez that changes with the market. So maybe you’ll get something like a grilled octopus taco with avocado mint puree or an uni and amberjack ceviche. Maybe you’ll stand on your heads while whistling “Sweet Georgia Brown.”

We don’t want to micromanage your date or anything.

Hadley Tomicki lives in Los Angeles. He is probably going nowhere on the 10 Freeway this very second.

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