Roman Empire
Your New and Improved Roman Osteria

We might be pointing out the obvious, but with Pizzeria Delfina's anniversary and tomorrow's debut of Out the Door, Pac Heights' restaurant scene is having a bit of a moment.

Here to fan the flames, SPQR.

Reopening tomorrow, your favorite little two-year-old Roman-inspired osteria is shaking things up with a new chef, a new way in and a few plush new touches…

You'll remember back in the day—two weeks ago—when putting your name on the list meant waiting outside or hovering over fellow diners at the bar. No more. Now, you can make reservations—or, if you still want to keep things spontaneous, put your name on the list and move to the new front corner spot, carved out with your waiting comfort in mind.

There's a good chance you've already heard about the chef shuffle, so we'll spare you the bicoastal drama. But we think you'll like chef Matthew Accarrino's (formerly of Craft LA and Per Se) take on Roman cuisine—like the heavy emphasis on spuntino (Italian for "snacks"), including Deviled Eggs Al Diavolo and Accarrino's own version of SPQR's dish that put Brussels sprouts on the map.

Unwind with a glass of single-vineyard Prosecco then move to the Cesanese to wash down your Spaghetti Carbonara, now topped with a soft hen egg that you'll stir into your pasta.

Of course, you'll have to go another round if you plan on getting through the bigger—now triple figure—wine list.

But you're not going anywhere.