Quince-y Jones
Quince’s Casual Eatery Opens

You’ve got your special-occasion spots.

Then you’ve got your everyday ones.

And those are very separate things.

Except, of course, when they’re not.

Introducing Cotogna, a rustic, open-flame version of Quince for cocktails and upscale casual bites tucked away down the block in Jackson Square, opening Monday.

Even though it’s set up in the same 1907 exposed brick and timber building as its more formal elder brother, Cotogna (Italian for “quince”) is more like a modern version of a trattoria plucked from Lombardy, complete with robust whole-roasted meats, blistered pizzas and homemade tortelloni.

You know you’re in the right spot when you get to the front door and you think the place might be on fire. There are two open flames on view from everywhere: the rotisserie and the wood-burning oven. But it’s a controlled burn, so let the warmth of the wood-slatted ceiling and elm-wood back bar, as well as the timber beams and exposed brick, put you at ease.

They’re planning on setting up a standing-room-only spot for a quick bite. But if you’ve got time, opt for a stool at the copper-topped bar with a tequila-spiked Viceroy—or a table at the leather banquette with a bottle of Nebbiolo (all bottles are under $40, but you can order from Quince’s list if you want something like a Barolo).

Here’s to worlds colliding.