The Heat Is On
Wood-Fired Steak in the West Village

We've seen a lot of gimmicks come and go, but sometimes you just want a simple steak with a little grit to it. The kind of grit you can't get from a shiny new kitchen.

Welcome to Sheridan Square, a new West Village spot with old-world flair…in the form of a wood-fueled oven.

Unfortunately, the buzzkills at the fire department got rid of the city's wood-burning stoves some time ago, effectively closing out your chances at caveman-style steak. But the Sheridan folks have found a workaround. They start with a gas-lit flame, but add flavor with wood chips to give your steak a more intense, mouthwatering taste. And the same wood is hanging on the wall above the oven, so you'll know exactly what you're tasting.

If you aren't in the mood for steaks and chops, there's always the rest of the globe-trotting menu, including Foie Gras Ravioli and cocktails like the Rhubarb Daiquiri to keep things from getting too heavy. But don't let the menu fool you: They're still starting off, so be prepared for things to be a little rough around the edges.

Kind of like the steak.