Getting Smoked
A Smoked Meats Battle Royale

Whenever there are breaking developments in the fast-paced world of slow-cooked meats, we feel honor-bound to let you know. This month, there happen to be two such developments: the triumphant mail-order debuts of Goode Company, a Texas-style institution, and The North Carolina Barbecue Company, some new eastern vinegar-based upstarts. Go ahead, get a bib...

Available Meats
Goode: Massive quantities of mesquite-smoked brisket and turkey, ribs, and Czech-style and jalapeño sausages.
NC BBQ: Chopped pork—Eastern Carolina (marinated) and Piedmont style (not).
Edge: Goode. Anytime you can work the Czechs into your barbecue lineup is a plus.

Sauces
Goode: Goode’s Original, a slightly thicker, tomato-y sauce. Also: jalapeño garlic and heavy garlic versions.
NC BBQ: One sauce specifically meant for each pork style. Both are vinegar-based, and both are on the thinner side. Piedmont style has ketchup mixed in.
Edge: NC BBQ. All sauces should be meat-tailored. All things should be meat-tailored.

Fixins
Goode: Loaves of jalapeño cheddar bread, optional pecan pie.
NC BBQ: Two types of coleslaw—again, tailored to each of the pork styles.
Edge: Push. You’d actually like some slaw on your jalapeño cheddar bread.

Lineage
Goode: Began as a Houston restaurant in 1977 and is run by a “second-generation smokologist,” which must be a degree they grant down there.
NC BBQ: Just started by two guys who would like to present the Great Carolina BBQ Battle to you in all its delicious contentiousness.
Edge: Goode. There’s just no answer for the credential of second-generation smokologist.

When to Use It
Goode: When you’re feeding a group of ravenous carnivores.
NC BBQ: When you’re feeding a group of ravenous carnivores... who love pork.
Edge: Push. It’s really a win-win situation here. Smoked meat-offs usually are.