Published January 15, 2013
Tequila and Black Lobster Rolls in Century City
A tree rises sharply from the barren ground.
You’re no dendrologist, but there seems to be sort of a white cedar thing going on. Nice.
And instead of fruit, it appears to be bearing tequila and black lobster rolls...
Sorry. We tend to wax poetic over black lobster rolls.
Take a moment to thoughtfully ponder Hinoki & the Bird
—a stark Japanese wonderland of arid
spaces, pristine meats and sturdy drinks from the man behind Comme Ça, opening Thursday in Century
Let’s get right to that name: Hinoki is a Japanese cedar tree. And a bird is... a bird. Something about
the two things together is meant to make you picture an inviting hall of towering glass, unexpected angles and rope-y chairs
. A place of raw
beams and denim and cedar. (Apparently, the bird is BYO.)
Anyway, take your team of agents for dinner at a copper communal table for 14. Toss around some well-honed
bons mots about your script. Covertly scope out the enclosed patio. Return to that patio later with a
And when you do, you’ll want to summon oysters and Hinoki Swizzles
(sherry, elderflower, apple
and champagne). Then there’ll be pork belly, kale and... an unusual lobster roll
with green chili, Thai basil and a pitch-black charcoal-infused bun.
Yup, bread is the new black.
Hinoki & the Bird
10 Century Dr
(at W Olympic Blvd)
Los Angeles, CA 90067