Published November 04, 2011
Cooks in the Kitchen
Wine, Pretzels and Pork on Beverly
There’s something about grandmothers.
They know just when you want a cheddar buttermilk biscuit. Or when you need a nice slow-grilled pork loin
with bacon and apples. And Grandma always loved her red wine...
Take a
look at the rustic splendor of Cooks County, your new home for comfort food in a dining room
that feels as welcoming as Grandma’s house, opening Monday and taking reservations now.
If you’ve had a good wine date at Barbrix recently, take her here for date #2—the owners are involved
with this place, too, and it’s got the same relaxed, kinda-domestic vibe inside.
Start with some
Spretzels (they’re pretzels made with spelt flour)... and some wine, obviously.
You’re more likely to find a random Slovenian white than a California chardonnay, but they’ll open up
anything they’ve got. (Check the board over the six-seater bar to see which bottles have been opened aside
from the by-the-glass options.)
The menu will always change
based on what’s at the markets—you know the drill—but for your first meal you’ll probably want some
Pacific clams steamed in vermouth and celery root.
And soon this will also be your spot for a burger at lunch—and a pretty enticing weekend brunch. Think
champagne, pumpkin pancakes, cheddar buttermilk biscuits, oxtail hash...
Aka the four food groups.
VITALS
Cooks County
8009 Beverly Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323-653-8009
official website