Published January 19, 2011
Tongue Tied
Beef Tongue and Bourbon in Little Tokyo
Steaks. Sushi. Beer.
All great things.
But sometimes you need an edgy little dinner spot that allows you to cavalierly throw around phrases like:
“Yes, she’ll have the shiokara-marinated intestines.”
Welcome to
Aburiya Toranoko, a den of Japanese curiosities from the owner of the Lazy Ox Canteen
next door, opening one week from tonight in Little Tokyo.
So picture it. The sun’s gone down, you’ve picked up your date, and you’ve just stepped into a room
with concrete floors, black chandeliers and a big graffiti mural down one side―it feels a little like
you’re tucked beneath the city’s classiest overpass.
Make your way to the head of the long communal table in the middle, order a round of hand-blended
Kyoho
Grapes (white-grape vodka, mint and grape sorbet), then a round of
Maker’s Mark BBQs
(bourbon, sweet vermouth, Aperol and barbecue sauce). And then you’ll be ready for
what’s to come.
If you’re feeling brave, you’ll try plates of chicken hearts,
Beef Tongue in Marinated Miso
and, yes, intestines (they’re beef, pork, chicken and lamb). If not, they’ve got more traditional
sashimi and some nice fried chicken―and it’s all from a chef who’s a longtime Nobu vet.
So the guy knows his beef tongue.
VITALS
Aburiya Toranoko
243 S San Pedro St
(south of 2nd)
Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-621-9500
official website