When you want churros that will bring you to your knees and make you believe in a higher power, you go to Xoco.

When you want a relaxing, comfortable restaurant, you go... anywhere else.

That’s so not right.

But here comes Xoco Wicker Park to fix all that. It’s a welcome upgrade to your informal encounters with Señor Rick Bayless, and it’s opening Thursday.

The menu’s essentially the same as the one at its River North sibling. Why mess with a good thing, right...

You’ll grab a table. You’ll peruse the short rib tortas and pig’s-feet tostadas. You’ll say you’re not going to get the strawberry soft-serve at the end of your meal, but then you’ll call the server over and say, “I was joking, bring me the strawberry soft-serve.”

Then it hits you. You’re sitting down. And that’s a real live person taking your order at your very own table. And no tourists are sitting next to you.

Very nice indeed.

But one thing you’re really going to like: that long wooden bar with 20 tap handles pouring 20 local beers. Oh, and margaritas on tap.

Also stools, but those seem anticlimactic at this point.