Yusho Fine
Japanese Cool from a Trotter’s Chef

For the holidays, we’re thinking of getting you gold. And frankincense. And, naturally, myrrh.

No, wait. Sorry. Not gold. Gin. We meant gin, of course.

Because there’s now this place: Yusho, a sexy little cabin of grilled Japanese small plates and very intense cocktailing, now open in Logan Square.

Even though the chef/owner here spent the last 14 years as the executive chef at Charlie Trotter’s, you’ll find he’s getting back to basics: crunchy-fried-chicken-served-on-a-Tokyo-newspaper kind of basic. Chicken-wings-served-on-skewers kind of basic. A steamed bun stuffed with Kobe. Foie gras with fermented yuzu. In other words, your kind of basic.

For big dinner parties, head for the back dining room and take over an elegant mid-century-era Japanese table. Anime projections loop on the brick wall, and the scent of live Japanese pines fills the room. Then just start ordering. We mean everything. Chicken skins, chicken livers, pork belly with kimchi.

If you just need a quick bite, perch under the big ropey pendant lights at the front bar. Watch chefs grill scallops while you sip Boswell’s 20th Century, a lemony gin drink perfumed with a tincture of frankincense. Or try Cate’s Esters, with rum, lime, sugar, orange and myrrh bitters. They’ll also be offering a carbonated chuhai—basically carbonated shochu on tap.

Three wise choices.