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Published March 28, 2011

Cruise Control
The Boka Boys Drop Anchor in River North

Yachts: such crazy, impractical things.

You try never to go anywhere without one.

But for those occasions when it’s in dry dock, we present GT Fish and Oyster, the long-awaited fish joint that’s slated to drop anchor Wednesday in River North.

You’ve already heard the tale of this one: it’s from the guys behind Boka, Perennial and Girl & The Goat, who have conspired with Giuseppe Tentori, Boka’s lauded chef, for a high-seas adventure.

The interior looks like a yacht that Hugh Hefner and Barbi Benton would sail from Catalina to Nantucket if someone needed fresh oysters (this is pre-Pfizer, mind you). There’s that black lacquer cabinetry with requisite brass trim, the shark jaws, the chandelier that looks like a fishing net sparkling with contemporary art.

It’s a boisterous place where you can come after work, prop yourself at the big boomerang-shaped table near the door and knock back oysters (they have nine kinds daily), lobster rolls and shrimp cocktails while regaling folks with tales of the turbulent waters in the office NCAA pool.

And when you want to test the waters more thoroughly, you and your crew will commandeer one of the two big communal tables in the dining room. Soon, you’ll be riding wave after wave of black squid gnocchi and monstrously large king crab legs.

Thankfully, going overboard is encouraged.
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